Arrival in Kuusamo

The journey begins in Kuusamo, in the very heart of Finnish Lapland. The dry, biting Arctic air is our first welcome, while snow-covered conifer forests immediately set the tone for the magical week ahead. From the very first moments, the landscape conveys a strong sense of isolation, silence, and untouched wilderness.

We settle into Ruka Village, a base that combines the facilities of a mountain resort with the warm, cozy atmosphere of a small northern village. This will be our starting point for the first days of exploration. During the welcome dinner, we will have time to get to know each other, review the itinerary, fine-tune our photographic gear, and prepare for the days ahead.

In January, the sun barely rises a few degrees above the horizon, gifting us around six continuous hours of soft, low-angle light, as if the entire day unfolded between an extended sunrise and sunset. This unique light is one of the great highlights of the Arctic winter and sets the rhythm for our photographic work. That very night, weather permitting, we will head outdoors to watch the sky and see whether the aurora borealis decides to make its first appearance, opening the expedition with one of the most breathtaking natural spectacles on Earth.

Riisitunturi, the Enchanted Forest

Our first dawn surprises us in Riisitunturi National Park, home to the iconic tykky trees: spruces that, under the immense weight of snow and ice, are transformed into true natural sculptures. Their twisted, ghostly silhouettes—shaped by accumulations that can exceed two tons of snow per tree—create an unreal, almost otherworldly landscape.

We move through the forest on snowshoes, exploring the area in search of the best compositions as the low winter sun bathes the scene in soft golden and pink tones. The silence is deep and immersive, broken only by the crunch of snow beneath our feet. As night falls, weather permitting, we will return to this unique setting to try to capture the aurora borealis dancing above one of the most magical landscapes in the European Arctic.

Leaving the ghostly forests behind, we make our way to Oulanka National Park. Here, the main protagonist is no longer the trees, but the water. The Kitka River winds its way through snow and ice, forming powerful rapids such as Myllykoski, where an old wooden mill has withstood decades of harsh winters. Suspension bridges provide elevated and privileged viewpoints, perfect for photographing the striking contrast between the pure white snow and the dark, fast-moving water below.

Oulanka is well known in summer for the Karhunkierros Trail, which stretches for more than 80 kilometers, but in winter the landscape is transformed into a fairytale-like setting. The frozen riverbanks, snow-covered forests, and flowing rapids create an ideal environment for minimalist compositions and visually powerful winter landscapes, offering a completely different photographic experience in the heart of the Arctic.

Kuntivaara, Guardians of the Border

Today we experience one of the true highlights of the journey. We ascend by snowmobile sled to the summit of Mount Kuntivaara, close to the Russian border. From the top, a spectacular 360-degree panoramic view unfolds, with endless forests and frozen landscapes stretching to the horizon. Here, the iconic tykky trees stand like silent guardians, watching over the Arctic wilderness.

The wind is stronger at this altitude, further sculpting the snow-covered trees into dramatic, otherworldly forms. Between photographic sessions, we take shelter in a traditional wooden cabin, warming up and sharing impressions while waiting for the best light. On clear days, it is even possible to glimpse Russian territory in the distance, reinforcing the powerful feeling of remoteness and of standing at the very edge of the world.

Iso-Syöte, the Snowiest Peak

We move on to Iso-Syöte, considered the snowiest place in all of Finland. The hills here are covered in such a thick white mantle that it feels like stepping into Narnia. The local hotel and cabins are photographic subjects themselves: wooden structures half-buried under snow, radiating calm and isolation.

In 2019, Iso-Syöte was officially named the snowiest spot in Finland — and it’s easy to see why. If fortune favors us, by nightfall we might capture the northern lights dancing above the ice-covered cabins.

Reindeer Farm, Cabins & Konttainen

In the morning, we visit a traditional reindeer farm near Kuusamo. The animals live in semi-freedom and are used to human presence, which allows us to photograph them in authentic settings: antlers frosted with snow, their breath hanging in the frozen air, scenes that feel straight out of a Sámi tale.

We also learn about their cultural importance in Finnish Lapland and, with luck, feed them or capture images of them running across the snow.

After midday, we explore the typical wooden cabins of the area, known as lomamajat, which under the snow exude the full warmth of the Arctic winter.

In the afternoon, we ascend Konttainen Hill, with panoramic views of Riisitunturi and the frozen lakes. Sunset here is spectacular: the sky turning pink and violet while the horizon stretches to infinity.

This day is kept open for repetition. Perhaps we return to Riisitunturi if the weather was unkind, or back to Oulanka to capture that misty water shot we missed, or once again to Kuntivaara in search of auroras.

Weather in Lapland changes quickly — within hours you can move from a snowstorm to clear skies. This flexibility ensures we don’t leave without making the most of the most photogenic places.

Farewell to Lapland

The final day dawns quietly. We say goodbye to Ruka and Kuusamo, perhaps with one last short walk through nearby forests, to engrave in memory the crunch of snow and the icy air filling our lungs. After breakfast, we head back to Kuusamo airport for our flights home — memory cards full and hearts carrying the magic of a week immersed in Lapland’s white winter.